Karimabad to Eagles Nest and back

The next morning started early and cold. Night temperatures are below zero already... something I had not expected as I had been traveling warm countries for the last 6 months. It was hard to leave the bed as it was the only warm place around. We wrapped up for breakfast and sat in the big restaurant over a small heater, almost camping like. But the sun soon was strong enough to warm us and we were keen to see more of the mountains. After a stop at the local dried fruits man (sunkissed dried aprocots and almonds, yummmm!) we first went to Baltit Fort overlooking the village. Again, as the only tourists we had a special guided tour and learned about the different dynasties who altered and renovated the Fort in different centuries. As Hunza people were enemies of the Nagar people just opposite the river, this and more forts were necessary for protection. And indeed the fort had the best views over the valley, the village and the river.

From there we spotted an interesting looking trail which we soon should follow all the way to the next village and the highest hotel called Eagle's Nest. On the way we were overwhelmed by the scenery. So many Aaaaaahs and Ooooohs escaped us. Clear views, high peaks, the golden forest in the valley and warming orange sunlight... I can not think of a more beautiful setting. Every few meters we had to stop to take pictures. The trail was very narrow and challenging as it was apparently only made for mountain goats, we even met a few accompanied by their shepherd. When we entered the next village people came over curiously looking at the "gory" (white woman) and the Pakistani in western cloths. The kids shouted "Hello" and old people asked about the security situation in Karachi and inviting us over for chai. Even though "the mountains" are perceived dangerous terrain in the outside world, in Hunza valley people are so distant from any Taliban trouble, that they cannot imagine why suddenly no tourists are coming anymore. For them Karachi is a dangerous place due to its crime rate. Hunza people are educated, overwhelmingly friendly and hospitable and unfortunately suffering a lot from the lack of income from tourism. Most of them talk English, but they gladly switched to Urdu when talking to Maryam. I was mostly just the sidekick. Even though local people dressed traditionally with lots of shawls and wool due to the cold and women covering their head, nobody was offended by us in normal warm western outfits. I must admit I almost was ashamed of the bad opinion we Western people have from Pakistanis in general.

 Eventually we arrived Eagle's Nest, enjoyed the views over apricot soup with homemade noodles and walnut chapati. On our way back we should meet more locals bringing in their animals (mostly goats and cattle) and giving us freshly picked apples (so sweet and delicious). And with every bit of sunset atmosphere we had to take more pictures of beautiful illuminated surroundings. I was feeling so privileged and lucky to be able to visit this drop dead gorgeous country.